One Michelin Star Mayfair Est. 2011
A wood-fired tasting room of thirty-two seats. Two seatings a night, a menu that changes when the season does, and nothing at all in a hurry.
01 — The idea
02 — Tonight
Twelve courses, £165 per guest. Cellar pairing £110, or a non-alcoholic flight at £65. Written each Tuesday; changed whenever the market insists.
Porthilly rock oyster, apple charred on the bar, elderflower vinegar.
Four-day levain baked to order, bone marrow smoked over ash.
Orkney scallop, hazelnut, a spoon of last year's verjus.
Buried in embers for six hours, then sliced thin as paper.
Cornish turbot on the bone, grilled over vine cuttings.
Rolled at four o'clock, dressed in a jus of spring lamb.
Forty days on the bone, glazed at the fire, carved at the table.
Baked whole in salt and hay. Truffle from Alba, while it lasts.
Three from the trolley, chosen for you, with warm walnut bread.
Sicilian oranges, a cold cream of yoghurt, green oil from Puglia.
Single-origin ganache rolled in leek ash. The dish we never take off.
Served in the lounge, with coffee or a small glass of something old.
03 — The kitchen
“The fire is the only thing in this kitchen I don't control. That is rather the point of it.”
Fifteen years in Lyon, Copenhagen and San Sebastián, then a small room on Marlowe Street with one grill, one oven and no gas at all. Cendre opened in 2011 with nine tables and a single supplier of oak.
The star came in 2016. The oak still arrives on a Thursday, seasoned two winters, from the same forest in Hampshire — and the menu is still written by hand each Tuesday morning, before the market.
Theo Marchand, Chef Patron
04 — The room
05 — The cellar
Burgundy and the Jura for the most part, then whatever our sommelier has argued for that month. Half the list is under £70, and every bottle is available by the glass if you are only having one.
06 — Visit
Bookings open sixty days ahead, on the first of the month at ten. For parties of seven or more, or the chef's counter, write to us directly.
